A road trip from Wellington to Cape Palliser: Where to go for wine, walks, and windswept coastlines
Stop by Martinborough, then carry on to the rugged bottom of the North Island.
Windswept coastlines, solitary lighthouses and one-road towns make the lower corner of the North Island perfect for travellers with a sense of adventure and a penchant for van life.
This isolated corner of the North island is ripe for exploration on a campervan out of Wellington.
In two nights, three days, and about seven hours of driving, you can see some of the wildest corners of the region.
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Wellington to Castlepoint
The drive from Wellington to Castlepoint takes around two and a half hours. After winding your way over the Remutaka Range, stop in Featherston for some road trip fuel; a cheese scone from C’est Cheese, an artisanal deli and cheese store. That will keep you going until your destination.
Castlepoint feels like a world apart from the city. Fishing boats sit pulled up onto the sandy shore. Occasionally, someone bobs past on a horse. Other than a local shop, which also serves as a coffee place and takeaway joint, there’s not much here other than simple baches hunkering against the hills.
Watching over the small settlement is Castlepoint Lighthouse, a monolith atop a craggy limestone knoll lashed by waves. First lit in 1913, it's the tallest lighthouse in the North Island and one of the last two remaining lighthouses in New Zealand with a rotating beam. A boardwalk scales the fossil studded ridge of the headland to reach the lighthouse, then climbs beyond to an epic lookout.
For an alternative vantage point, follow the Deliverance Cove Walking track from the carpark. It curves along a pine-covered ridge above the beach, eventually leading to the mighty Castle Rock. Scramble up through golden grass and until you reach the lofty peak. At 162 metres high, it looms over the coast and gives impressive views in all directions. Walk back to the carpark along the half moon of the lagoon, where surfers catch waves rolling in through a narrow gap in the rock.
Park up your campervan at the Castlepoint Holiday Park for a prime spot close to the water, with views of the lighthouse. It’s equally pretty at night, with the beam of light swirling over town beneath skies dusted with stars.
Stop in Martinborough, a sweet little wine village
Poppies, Martinborough
The entrance to Poppies
Martinborough is the North Island’s cutest little wine village.
It takes around 1 hour 20 minutes to drive from Wellington to Martinborough. On the way, I usually stop in Featherston for a cheese scone at C’est Cheese.
The main thing to do in Martinborough is explore the vineyards.
Often compared to the French wine region of Burgundy, Martinborough — a sub-region of the wider Wairarapa region — is an excellent wine destination.
The Martinborough wine region has around 30 vineyards, most of which are boutique, family-owned wineries.
Happily, around 20 vineyards are clustered around Martinborough village centre, so you can walk or cycle to a whole range of vineyards.
Martinborough is known for producing excellent Pinot Noir wines, which often have bright and vibrant red fruit notes. If you prefer white wines, the region also produces Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling.
Visiting a few of Martinborough’s wineries is the best way to learn more about the region’s wines, as well as the people who make them. The vineyards range from the larger productions, like Palliser Estate, to small family-run affairs like Muirlea Rise.
MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN MARTINBOROUGH
Poppies Martinborough — a local favourite thanks to its platter lunches and stellar white wines. You can stroll in for a tasting anytime, but you should book ahead to get a lunch spot.
I loved how laid back the tasting was at Poppies. It felt friendly and down-to-earth, while the wines were fabulous (my favourite was the dry Pinot Noir Rose).
Walk around the Putangirua Pinnacles
A 40-minute drive from Martinborough are the Putangirua Pinnacles.
These unique rock formations have an eerie appearance like fairy chimneys. You can walk through the pinnacles up a rocky streambed, or up to a ridgeline for views of the rock formations amidst the forest.
The walking track to the Putangirua Pinnacles is well-marked and easily accessible. The return walk to the Pinnacles and back to the car park typically takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, but you may want to allow extra time for exploring and taking photographs.
The Putangirua Pinnacles are a photographer's dream. The interplay of light and shadow on the unique rock structures, especially during sunrise or sunset, creates stunning photo opportunities.
Note that in February 2023 the Putangirua Pinnacles track was closed due to a large slip. Check the DOC website for the latest updates.
Visit the Cape Palliser lighthouse
The road to Cape Palliser follows the pebbled coast around the southern Wairarapa.
It’s dotted with one-way bridges, slowing you down in preparation for the pace of life in Ngawi, a quirky fishing village wedged between a cliff and gravelly beach.
Bulldozers tinted orange from salt spray sit in a haphazard line along the water’s edge, their rusted hulks waiting to drag homecoming fishing boats from the ocean.
Rogue sheep trot across the road, unbothered by passing cars.
Continuing past Ngawi, you’ll feel as if you’re reaching the end of the world. In some ways you are; this is the southernmost point of the North Island.
The road becomes narrow and potholed, dipping in and out of fords and clinging to the rocky cliff in places.
Only attempt it if you’re in a small to medium-sized campervan.
On the way to the lighthouse is the largest fur seal colony in the North Island.
The seals are everywhere, hopping between bushes and lugging themselves over rocks, wafting pungent smells as they go. They are often sprawled right by the parking area, so take care and make sure you keep at least a 20-metre distance.
The Cape Palliser lighthouse is the last stop on the road. Boldly candy striped in red and white, it has stood at its fantastic vantage point since 1897.
Climb the 253 steep steps to enjoy views of the harakeke-covered hills and surf surging onto shingle beaches below.
Make a pit stop for coffee and cake at The Land Girl cafe in blink-and-you-missed-it Pirinoa. It’s the perfect amount of quirky, with upcycled outdoor seating where you can enjoy country views, and even some vintage clothing treasures to browse.
Thanks for reading! If you love wine as much as me, you might also enjoy these articles:
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